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Psychedelic_Bio_dome earth reference page
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DMT extraction:
Preparation: (first tek method on DMT extraction from mimosa hostilis root bark)
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.
Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.
Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.
Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)
Alternative Next-Steps
Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)
↓My method is below↓
Acid wash/Salting:
This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.
Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.
Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.
Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water
Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.
Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.
Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.
Evaporation:
The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air
The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc
This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product
There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.
My currently used method is simple. Step 1: Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.
Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml
Step 3: Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml
Step 4: Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.
Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.
The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.
The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.
Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Measuring the tincture:
Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.
Quantitative Concentration (numerical):
-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster
-put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!
-Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed.
-goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.
Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated.
Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe
ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg
Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change
Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions)
If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
Concetration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = ????
If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.
Freebasing for Smoking:
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight
Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!
Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.
There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times
1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.
2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)
In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.
If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.
It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.
Smoking:
Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click this link and read the page.
I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and wasted 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads
Super-short Compressed Tek 1 You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
vMHRB
Vinegar
D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent. Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.
There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is here
Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest About Naptha
Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs)
2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.
~https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek
WHOLE ARTICLE COPIED BELOW(TOO MANY TIMES THESE DISAPPEAR)
Introduction As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.
If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)
Tek 2 (Uses naptha)
Background Information The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)
(whole MHRB)
Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark .
For information about where to purchase this bark (I recommend pre-powdered MHRB).
Visit the Suppliers sub-forum
Make sure to do a thorough search before posting a new thread please.
Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information.
Methods: Pharmahuasca, Mucosahuasca or Smoking
White N-N-DMT
(Click the arrow beside the thumbnail to view the full size image, same with all thumbnails)
(DMT I extracted from Tek 2)
White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of it's weight in White DMT, though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.
In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just White DMT in it.
Red "Jungle" DMT
Red Jungle DMT freebase
"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like White DMT
Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to White DMT.
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure White DMT is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the White DMT
An analysis was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.
Yellow DMT-N-oxide
Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT
DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency.
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than white DMT or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.
Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product
If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during the tek.
Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.
DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries, make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.
About the 2 teks
Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naptha they will be referred to as "the solvent"
In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used.
Tek 2 uses naptha (lighter fluid) while Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner)
Naptha needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but it's unique solubility properties allow for White DMT to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer. Tek 2 thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However Naptha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely white DMT and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.
D-Limonene and Xylene dissolve both white DMT and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating-step.
Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.
Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be
*100% food-safe*
For a first-timer Tek 2 may be better advised than Tek 1 cause it is a lot harder to mess up. (You can do a Tek 1 pull later on a Tek 2 extraction later) That being said both teks are quite simple, comparable to baking a cake, and will work extremely well for extracting the DMT using no lye (drain cleaner).
A little info on Lime
The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is extremely caustic and toxic.
THIS TEK WILL NOT WORK WITH LYE, IT IS ONLY MADE FOR LIME
Known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.
Until recently using caustic and toxic Sodium Hydroxide (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous
"Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions of sodium hydroxide may cause chemical burns, permanent injury or scarring if it contacts unprotected human, or other animal, tissue. It may cause blindness if it contacts the eye. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves, safety clothing and eye protection should always be used when handling the material or its solutions...
...It also produces heat when reacted with acids. Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact." From Wikipedia
These Teks instead use Lime. Lime is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.
There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities.
Here are some tips:
Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums.
So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores, local availability varies all the way from none-to-lots depending on country/location
If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.
If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally, This site is great .
Mrs Wages Pickling lime
That brand is known to be excellent but you may find better deals by googling "buy pickling lime online" (without quotes) .
The effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.
Tek 1: The Jimjam party Materials required:
IMPORTANT:
The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"
Extraction Specific:
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH)
30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2)
125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene
one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark)
Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel
one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one Stove or Kettle
one Pot or Pan
Useful tools
one or more Funnels
one Rice cooker
one Baking pan/large surface area container
one or more razor blades/scrapers
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)
Tincture tools
one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml
one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml)
one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses
one spoon
one lighter/candle/heat source
Preparation:
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.
Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.
Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.
Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)
Alternative Next-Steps
Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)
↓My method is below↓
Acid wash/Salting:
This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.
Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.
Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.
Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water
Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.
Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.
Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.
Evaporation:
The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air
The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc
This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product
There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.
My currently used method is simple. Step 1: Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.
Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml
Step 3: Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml
Step 4: Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.
Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.
The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.
The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.
Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Measuring the tincture:
Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.
Quantitative Concentration (numerical):
-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster
-put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!
-Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed.
-goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.
Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated.
Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe
ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg
Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change
Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions)
If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
Concetration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = ????
If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.
Freebasing for Smoking:
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight
Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!
Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.
There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times
1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.
2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)
In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.
If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.
It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.
Smoking:
Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click this link and read the page.
I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and wasted 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads
Super-short Compressed Tek 1 You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
vMHRB
Vinegar
D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent. Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.
There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is here
Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest About Naptha
Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs)
2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.
(what your product will look like If you follow the tek)
Materials required:
IMPORTANT: The lime, the vinegar, the naptha and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"
Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naptha won't dissolve/degrade)
one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best)
one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation
one freezer
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH)
Some Lime Ca(OH)2
100ml or more Naptha
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)
Useful tools
a few Playing cards
one or more razor blades/scrapers
Some coffee filters
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)
Preparation:
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-500g powdered MHRB and place in your container.
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. (Approximately: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-Polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naptha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
CAUTION: Naptha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) Also if it is left for a several hours the naptha will all be gone
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommend doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Put the top/smaller bowl into the bottom/larger bowl and add enough boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the top bowl, either that or just until the top bowl floats. This is very simply to warm the naptha indirectly and safely.
Step 2: Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. It should be 1ml naptha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naptha or more for 100g MHRB) The naptha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.
*The naptha does NOT need to be hot, only warm (feel the bowl, not the naptha)*
Step 3: Stir the bark around with the naptha thoroughly and periodically until it is warmed from the water underneath. Once warm 5-10 minutes is all that is needed. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 4: Pour off the naptha from the bark-goo and into *your precipitation container* to get naptha out pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, this will get at least 90% of the naptha out and there is no need to get 100% of it.
*make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha*
If after this step the naptha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry.
The naptha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow unlike the deep-yellows and sometimes browns you may see in STB teks.
*your precipitation container*
I find it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals.
You can use any naptha-safe container though.
Recrystallization:
This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.
Step 1: Just pop the naptha straight into the freezer.
You can do a recrystallization later for larger crystals, but for the initial step it is best to just put the naptha in the freezer right away.
Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but expect your freezer to smell like naptha for a day or two whether you do or not. I usually to leave it uncovered.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT-freebase. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 2a: While the first batch of naptha is in the freezer you can add new naptha and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 2b: Wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use only the single batch of naptha.
In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.
Step 3: Keep the naptha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming.
If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.
Step 4: Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take it out and pour off the naptha. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors, fumes) place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours.
Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, usually just SLOWLY pouring the naptha off works, you may need to pour it through a coffee filter to get all the crystals though.
Note 1: If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Note 2:there may be a small film underneath the crystals. The film is soluble in vinegar and I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT
Once it no longer smells like naptha the DMT-freebase is ready.
Storage:
You can either scrape the DMT up and store in a mini-ziplock bag or any other small sealable container as is.
A playing card folded with a crease down the middle works very well for moving the crystals around.
The other option is to dissolve it in vinegar as a tincture.
(Most will probably keep it as is, but the tincture method is worth mentioning)
I personally prefer the tincture because it is easier to measure, keep, transport, smoke and it can be filtered for the utmost purity.
If a tincture is to be made then all you need to do is dissolve everything in the precipitation container in a minimal amount of vinegar, the liquid will need to be evaporated down until it starts getting deep-yellow.
There is a lot more information on tinctures in Tek 1
Super-short Compressed Tek 2 You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
MHRB
Vinegar
Naptha
Freezer
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistancy of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Make sure the bark mush is warm. Cold naptha is very poor at dissolving DMT. You can use anything gentle to heat, hot water bath or crock pot on LOW. Naptha is FLAMABLE so do not use anything with a flame or an element on anything but LOW. Add about 1ml naptha for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. Stir the naptha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the naptha (might need to use coffee filter) into a container which will go in the freezer. I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan. If the naptha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation
In a couple hours the naptha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-24 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naptha and form crystals on the container. When the naptha is no longer cloudy then gently and but quickly pour the naptha off the crystals (may need coffee filter). Put the container on it's side to allow the naptha to evaporate. Watch the sun because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.
When the crystals no longer smell of naptha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something.
Common issues/Troubleshooting
If the first 2 pulls (or pulls >2 hours after adding lime) don't seem to be yielding much or any DMT then there are a few questions you can ask to find the issue:
Question 1: Was your lime Calcium Hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)?
Solution 1: If the answer was "no" (look up MSDS) then real lime will need to be added in the amount mentioned in the tek as well as enough water to create the correct consistency.
This error can cause the tek to become a STB rather than an A/B. Lime STB teks take 36-48 hours for the solvent to pull a significant amount of DMT so that may end up being what happens.
Questions 2: Was the mush mixed thoroughly enough? Was it too dry?
Solutions 2: A little more water or mixing if done quickly may immediately fix the problem but may create a STB situation metioned in Solution 1.
Questions 3:(Tek 2 only) Is your Naptha suitable for use in freezer-precipitating DMT? (less likely) Did you use way too much?
Solutions 3: If No to the first, look up the MSDS on the naptha or look up previous forum posts (avoid making entirely new post if possible).
If No to the 2nd you may need to evaporate a portion of the naptha (not with heat, use fan to speed up room-temp evaporation) I've never had to do that though.
Question 4: Was the vinegar added regular white vinegar suitable for this extraction?
Solution 4:If no, this will cause a STB situation mentioned in Solution 1
Question 5: Is your MHRB actually MHRB which contains DMT?
Solution 5: Buy some real MHRB. Though with all the sources reviewed in the supplier forum I have never seen this as a problem.
Preparation: (first tek method on DMT extraction from mimosa hostilis root bark)
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.
Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.
Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.
Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)
Alternative Next-Steps
Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)
↓My method is below↓
Acid wash/Salting:
This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.
Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.
Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.
Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water
Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.
Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.
Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.
Evaporation:
The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air
The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc
This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product
There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.
My currently used method is simple. Step 1: Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.
Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml
Step 3: Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml
Step 4: Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.
Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.
The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.
The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.
Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Measuring the tincture:
Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.
Quantitative Concentration (numerical):
-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster
-put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!
-Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed.
-goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.
Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated.
Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe
ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg
Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change
Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions)
If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
Concetration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = ????
If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.
Freebasing for Smoking:
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight
Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!
Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.
There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times
1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.
2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)
In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.
If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.
It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.
Smoking:
Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click this link and read the page.
I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and wasted 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads
Super-short Compressed Tek 1 You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
vMHRB
Vinegar
D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent. Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.
There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is here
Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest About Naptha
Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs)
2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.
~https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek
WHOLE ARTICLE COPIED BELOW(TOO MANY TIMES THESE DISAPPEAR)
Introduction As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.
If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)
Tek 2 (Uses naptha)
Background Information The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)
(whole MHRB)
Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark .
For information about where to purchase this bark (I recommend pre-powdered MHRB).
Visit the Suppliers sub-forum
Make sure to do a thorough search before posting a new thread please.
Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information.
Methods: Pharmahuasca, Mucosahuasca or Smoking
White N-N-DMT
(Click the arrow beside the thumbnail to view the full size image, same with all thumbnails)
(DMT I extracted from Tek 2)
White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of it's weight in White DMT, though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.
In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just White DMT in it.
Red "Jungle" DMT
Red Jungle DMT freebase
"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like White DMT
Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to White DMT.
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure White DMT is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the White DMT
An analysis was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.
Yellow DMT-N-oxide
Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT
DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency.
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than white DMT or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.
Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product
If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during the tek.
Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.
DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries, make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.
About the 2 teks
Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naptha they will be referred to as "the solvent"
In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used.
Tek 2 uses naptha (lighter fluid) while Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner)
Naptha needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but it's unique solubility properties allow for White DMT to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer. Tek 2 thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However Naptha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely white DMT and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.
D-Limonene and Xylene dissolve both white DMT and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating-step.
Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.
Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be
*100% food-safe*
For a first-timer Tek 2 may be better advised than Tek 1 cause it is a lot harder to mess up. (You can do a Tek 1 pull later on a Tek 2 extraction later) That being said both teks are quite simple, comparable to baking a cake, and will work extremely well for extracting the DMT using no lye (drain cleaner).
A little info on Lime
The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is extremely caustic and toxic.
THIS TEK WILL NOT WORK WITH LYE, IT IS ONLY MADE FOR LIME
Known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.
Until recently using caustic and toxic Sodium Hydroxide (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous
"Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions of sodium hydroxide may cause chemical burns, permanent injury or scarring if it contacts unprotected human, or other animal, tissue. It may cause blindness if it contacts the eye. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves, safety clothing and eye protection should always be used when handling the material or its solutions...
...It also produces heat when reacted with acids. Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact." From Wikipedia
These Teks instead use Lime. Lime is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.
There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities.
Here are some tips:
Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums.
So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores, local availability varies all the way from none-to-lots depending on country/location
If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.
If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally, This site is great .
Mrs Wages Pickling lime
That brand is known to be excellent but you may find better deals by googling "buy pickling lime online" (without quotes) .
The effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.
Tek 1: The Jimjam party Materials required:
IMPORTANT:
The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"
Extraction Specific:
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH)
30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2)
125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene
one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark)
Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel
one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one Stove or Kettle
one Pot or Pan
Useful tools
one or more Funnels
one Rice cooker
one Baking pan/large surface area container
one or more razor blades/scrapers
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)
Tincture tools
one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml
one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml)
one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses
one spoon
one lighter/candle/heat source
Preparation:
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.
Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.
Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.
Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)
Alternative Next-Steps
Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)
↓My method is below↓
Acid wash/Salting:
This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.
Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.
Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.
Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water
Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.
Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.
Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.
Evaporation:
The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air
The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc
This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product
There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.
My currently used method is simple. Step 1: Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.
Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml
Step 3: Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml
Step 4: Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.
Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.
The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.
The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.
Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Measuring the tincture:
Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.
Quantitative Concentration (numerical):
-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster
-put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!
-Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed.
-goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.
Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated.
Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe
ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg
Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change
Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions)
If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
Concetration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = ????
If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.
Freebasing for Smoking:
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight
Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!
Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.
There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times
1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.
2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)
In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.
If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.
It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.
Smoking:
Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click this link and read the page.
I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and wasted 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads
Super-short Compressed Tek 1 You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
vMHRB
Vinegar
D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent. Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.
There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is here
Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest About Naptha
Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs)
2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.
(what your product will look like If you follow the tek)
Materials required:
IMPORTANT: The lime, the vinegar, the naptha and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"
Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naptha won't dissolve/degrade)
one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best)
one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation
one freezer
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH)
Some Lime Ca(OH)2
100ml or more Naptha
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)
Useful tools
a few Playing cards
one or more razor blades/scrapers
Some coffee filters
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)
Preparation:
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-500g powdered MHRB and place in your container.
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. (Approximately: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-Polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naptha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
CAUTION: Naptha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) Also if it is left for a several hours the naptha will all be gone
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommend doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Put the top/smaller bowl into the bottom/larger bowl and add enough boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the top bowl, either that or just until the top bowl floats. This is very simply to warm the naptha indirectly and safely.
Step 2: Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. It should be 1ml naptha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naptha or more for 100g MHRB) The naptha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.
*The naptha does NOT need to be hot, only warm (feel the bowl, not the naptha)*
Step 3: Stir the bark around with the naptha thoroughly and periodically until it is warmed from the water underneath. Once warm 5-10 minutes is all that is needed. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 4: Pour off the naptha from the bark-goo and into *your precipitation container* to get naptha out pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, this will get at least 90% of the naptha out and there is no need to get 100% of it.
*make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha*
If after this step the naptha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry.
The naptha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow unlike the deep-yellows and sometimes browns you may see in STB teks.
*your precipitation container*
I find it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals.
You can use any naptha-safe container though.
Recrystallization:
This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.
Step 1: Just pop the naptha straight into the freezer.
You can do a recrystallization later for larger crystals, but for the initial step it is best to just put the naptha in the freezer right away.
Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but expect your freezer to smell like naptha for a day or two whether you do or not. I usually to leave it uncovered.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT-freebase. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 2a: While the first batch of naptha is in the freezer you can add new naptha and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 2b: Wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use only the single batch of naptha.
In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.
Step 3: Keep the naptha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming.
If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.
Step 4: Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take it out and pour off the naptha. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors, fumes) place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours.
Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, usually just SLOWLY pouring the naptha off works, you may need to pour it through a coffee filter to get all the crystals though.
Note 1: If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Note 2:there may be a small film underneath the crystals. The film is soluble in vinegar and I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT
Once it no longer smells like naptha the DMT-freebase is ready.
Storage:
You can either scrape the DMT up and store in a mini-ziplock bag or any other small sealable container as is.
A playing card folded with a crease down the middle works very well for moving the crystals around.
The other option is to dissolve it in vinegar as a tincture.
(Most will probably keep it as is, but the tincture method is worth mentioning)
I personally prefer the tincture because it is easier to measure, keep, transport, smoke and it can be filtered for the utmost purity.
If a tincture is to be made then all you need to do is dissolve everything in the precipitation container in a minimal amount of vinegar, the liquid will need to be evaporated down until it starts getting deep-yellow.
There is a lot more information on tinctures in Tek 1
Super-short Compressed Tek 2 You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
MHRB
Vinegar
Naptha
Freezer
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistancy of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Make sure the bark mush is warm. Cold naptha is very poor at dissolving DMT. You can use anything gentle to heat, hot water bath or crock pot on LOW. Naptha is FLAMABLE so do not use anything with a flame or an element on anything but LOW. Add about 1ml naptha for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. Stir the naptha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the naptha (might need to use coffee filter) into a container which will go in the freezer. I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan. If the naptha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation
In a couple hours the naptha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-24 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naptha and form crystals on the container. When the naptha is no longer cloudy then gently and but quickly pour the naptha off the crystals (may need coffee filter). Put the container on it's side to allow the naptha to evaporate. Watch the sun because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.
When the crystals no longer smell of naptha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something.
Common issues/Troubleshooting
If the first 2 pulls (or pulls >2 hours after adding lime) don't seem to be yielding much or any DMT then there are a few questions you can ask to find the issue:
Question 1: Was your lime Calcium Hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)?
Solution 1: If the answer was "no" (look up MSDS) then real lime will need to be added in the amount mentioned in the tek as well as enough water to create the correct consistency.
This error can cause the tek to become a STB rather than an A/B. Lime STB teks take 36-48 hours for the solvent to pull a significant amount of DMT so that may end up being what happens.
Questions 2: Was the mush mixed thoroughly enough? Was it too dry?
Solutions 2: A little more water or mixing if done quickly may immediately fix the problem but may create a STB situation metioned in Solution 1.
Questions 3:(Tek 2 only) Is your Naptha suitable for use in freezer-precipitating DMT? (less likely) Did you use way too much?
Solutions 3: If No to the first, look up the MSDS on the naptha or look up previous forum posts (avoid making entirely new post if possible).
If No to the 2nd you may need to evaporate a portion of the naptha (not with heat, use fan to speed up room-temp evaporation) I've never had to do that though.
Question 4: Was the vinegar added regular white vinegar suitable for this extraction?
Solution 4:If no, this will cause a STB situation mentioned in Solution 1
Question 5: Is your MHRB actually MHRB which contains DMT?
Solution 5: Buy some real MHRB. Though with all the sources reviewed in the supplier forum I have never seen this as a problem.
CYP Enzymes (Drug Metabolism, etc) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztsBn8gsfHw
Induction and Inhibition (Anti-Oxidants, etc)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R0_TGHczRU
Cinnamon Bark- CYP2A6 & CYP2E1 Inhibitor (It will deplete your liver's Glutithione) Taken 1 Hour before Allybenzene,
Clove Leaf- CYP2C9, CYP3A4, CYP1A1 & CYP1B1 Inhibitor
German Chamomile- CYP1A2 Inhibitor (Caffeine may also do this)
Also
GoldenSseal & Echinacea purpurea very effectively do the same thing. And people have reported using Vitamin B9 or Almond extract or Star Anise Extract and Tangerine Peels or Extract.
The 4 Oils listed are "AllylBenzenes", here is a larger list, but I am not sure if anyone has ever tried to Oilahuasca these yet, and I do not know if it is safe, so I am not suggesting anyone try these, they are just here for the sake of discussing them so people in the future can be safe.
Anethole, Apiol, Asarone, Carpacin, Chavibetol, Chavicol, Dillapiole, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Isosafrole, Methyl Eugenol, Methyl Isoeugenol,
Here are the things that you need to make sure the Oil works.
Star Anise Extract or B9 for CYP2C9 Induction
Most important things:
CYP2C9 Induction
Alcohol Dehydrogenase Induction
Aldehyde Dehydrogenase Inhibition
Piperidine and or Dimethylamine Supplementation
Methyl from foods
Exercise or compounds that produce effects like exercise
Less important, but still factors:
SSAO Inhibition (Caffeine, Phenethylamine, Phenelalamine, Tryptamine)
MAO-A Induction
MAO-B Induction
NDMA Antagonism
Prolactin Inhibition
Hungarian Parsley Seed is a better source of Myristicin, just found that out. And the effects of it when activated properly are said to be like Mescaline and MDMA together. The P450 Enzymes CYP1A2 & CYP3A4 are what break this down and need to be inhibited. CYP2D6 could also play a big role.
Elmicin is something you either needs Chromotography type knowledge to get, or you have to buy it in small quantities. When activated properly it is like Mescaline, when activated wrong it is like Melatonin (sleepy). CYP1A1, CYP1B1, CYP1A2, CYP2A6, CYP2C9, CYP2A6, CYP2C9 & CYP2E1 are what are needed to be inhibited to activate this. CYP2D6 could also play an important role.
Safrole is like MDMA when activated properly and like Melatonin when not. CYP2A6, CYP2C9, and CYP2E1 are most important for this. CYP2D6 could also be important.
Methyl Chavicol when activated properly is like a light speedy LSD, when activated wrong it is said to be almost like Marijuana. CYP1A2 and CYP2A6 inhibit it, and CYP2D6 could also be important.
If the CYP2D6 Enzyme is inhibited with all the others, these are possibly visually hallucinogenic Oilahuascas. And the Methyl Chavicol doesn't build a tolerance (the others do) it actually gets stronger for you every time you use it, or you can use less.
Dill seed extract also is said to be able to be used. As one of the main things, like in place of the Chavicol.
And apparently you can turn the main ingredients into 3 different forms, depending what you take:
Dimethylamine, Piperidine and the Pyrrolidine derivatives
Piperidine is said to be the strongest and is made by having Pepper or a Pepper replacement in your system.
And Apparently Elami oil can be activated by Valerian Root of Chinese origin, Coffee, Almond Extract & Glycerin (the stuff E-Cig liquid is made of), and nothing else. And it is like Mescaline. Someone told that guy that he didn't even need the Valerian root, and if he had added Vanilla or Cumin oil to his coffee, it could have been even stronger. So basically if someone were to drink a Nutmeg, Vanilla, Almond Coffee... They could trip and not even expect it.
Valerian Root, B9, Anise seed are all interchangeable or to be used together
or replaced with:
DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone)
Eugenol (inhibits/induces CYP2C9)
Ginkgo biloba (inhibits/induces CYP2C9)
Licorice (inhibits/induces CYP2C9)
Milk Thistle
Resveratrol (inhibits CYP2C9)
Saint John’s Wort (inhibits/induces CYP2C9)
Turmeric (inhibits/induces CYP2C9)
Pepper tea, with the solids taken out, seems to be the best thing for creating the base base.
L-Lysine is said to really help the pepper.
Vanilla and Cinnamon seem to be interchangable. They are both Aldehydes.
German Chamomile does the best at blocking CYP1A2, but you can use Cayenne Peppers or Tangeretin.
CYP2A6 can be inhibited by:
Almond Extract, Anise oil, Benzaldehyde, Cinnamaldehyde, Lemon oil, Lime oil, Orange oil, Limonene, Tangerine oil, Lemongrass oil, Nicotine
CYP2D6 Inhibition could mean the difference between Psychedelic effects and no effects. Here are the things that inhibit it:
CBD (Cannabidiol from Cannabis), Echinacea Purpurea, Pomegranate, Pummelo, Calamus oil, Kava, Black Cohosh
CYP3A4 is important to inhibit, which can be done with:
Catechin, Clove oil, Dill seed oil, Ginger, Goldenseal, Pomegranate, Cinnamon & Kava.
Kudzu seems to help protect it after it is formed. This can be replaced by Gallic Acid, Soy Isoflavones, Glycerin, Caffeine or Benzaldehydge.
And if anyone were to try these things with Mescaline or MDMA or DMT, they would probably get some awesome effects. I am not sure if anyone has tried it yet, but there may be other versions of Ayahuasca to make, where you take DMT orally and have it made into something else by inhibiting certain enzymes.
Cayenne Peppers promote Endophines and Adrenaline, so they also put things in the body that are helpful.
From what I read earlier, any NMDA antagonist would be beneficial, but not crucial in the mix. This makes sense to me, because NMDA antagonists are things like, Ecstasy or Cough Medicine (Delsym) or MXE. So it would make sense that having something that has these effects would kind of kick the whole thing into a full blown experience.
So, Dextromotphan, that is what is in Cough Syrup and it is legal to buy, posses, etc. It is not any kind of drug. MXE is legal to buy and posses, but you are not allowed to take it unless you are a member of the Church of NeuroScience.
There are also plants that have these effects:
Uncaria Rhynchophyllia
Psychotria Colorata
Huperzia Serrata
Then there is the addition option of Prolactin Inhibition, which can be done with:
Zinc, Ginko Vitamin E, B6, Almonds or Almond Extract & Magnesium
And possibly by anything that releases Dopamine or acts like it. So L-DOPA, THC, and a few other things maybe.
Posted by Ryan Gallagher at 10:29 PM No comments: Email ThisBlogThis!Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to Pinterest
Entheogens
Coffee & Cuban Coffee, in Cuba they boil their coffee down REALLY small amount, so it's a lot stronger. Like if you made a pot of coffee with a coffee machine, then put it in a petal pot on the stove and boiled the pot down to one shot glass.
Guarana, Contains Caffeine and Theobromine. So has the effects of Coffee and Chocolate.
Guyusa, Kinda of like Tea, but it is used in place of Coffee in some places. And is stronger than Tea.
Yerba Mate, Kinda of like Tea, but it is used in place of Coffee in some places. And is stronger than Tea.
Oilahuasca: Oilahuasca is using simple things like Cinnamon/Clove Tea to turn off your P450 Enzymes, then taking something like Basil Extract, to achieve effects like ecstasy. It is similar to how Ayahuasca works.
Enchymoma: A word from the 1800s, it means "An Elixir Made in the Stomache"
Hotentot Tea: A Dream Brew including Imphepho flowers and a few other things, meant to promote dreaming.
Soma: An Ancient Vedic Brew, some Historians believe it is Opium Poppy, some Historians believe it is Amanita Muscaria, some Historians believe it is a brew Similar to Ayahuasca.
Ambrosia: An ancient Greek brew, possibly containing Opium, but definitely containing some kind of Psychoactive plant.
White Lotus Wine: The Ancient Egyptians used to let their Wine soak up the stuff inside Lotus before drinking it, so that they had a Lotus Tea/Wine. White lotus contains a compound that attaches to dopamine receptors.
Kratom: Has been made into tea by Buddhists for hundreds if not thousands of years. Contains Opiates that are not illegal, because they are not the same as the Opiates in Opium. And they may not show up on drug tests, I would double check though.
Lemon Grass: Contains Myrcene which can also be found in Hops/Beer. Has a slight Opiod Analgesic effect.
Black Cohosh: Attaches to 5HT serotonin receptors, can be made into a Tea or Capsule.
Mucuna Seed/Velvet Bean: Contains L-DOPA and Tryptamines, people use it as a Mood Enhancer.
Catnip: Can be made into a tea and drank by humans for light sedative effect, about 80% of cats are effected by it.
Valerian Root: Can effect cats similar to Catnip. Causes sedative effects in humans.
Silver Vine: Can effect cats similar to Catnip. Probably has effects for humans.
Bog Bean Leaves: Can effect cats similar to Catnip, used by humans in place of coffee.
Dittany of Crete: A Cooking Spice grown in Europe, this plant does not drop seeds and can only be cultivated by growing a clone, and it has been passed down this way for a LONG time. It has some sedative effects from what I have read, but I have not tried it.
Voaconga Africana: Contains things similar to Ibogaine and could be used for drug treatment.
Inebriating Mint: Used around Turkey, made like Tea, has a sedative effect.
Indian Warrior: A Natural Sedative/Tranquilizer
Mulungu: Said to be "Nature's Valium" by some people.
Wild Dagga: Contains Leourine, similar to Cannabis but not the same. Can be smoked or made into a tea.
Clip Dagga: Just like Wild Dagga
Motherwort/Siberian Motherwort: Contains the same thing as Wild Dagg and Clip Dagga.
Virola Elongota: Used by people in the Amazon as an entheogen and arrow poison.
Desfontainia: Known as "Chilean Holly", used as a Hallucinogen by native people.
Typha Capensis: Root Mass used as Entheogen
Maconha Brava: Used as an Entheogen in some places.
Black Horehound: Contains Diterpenes and is said to have some entheogen effects.
Stone Root: Has effects on the central nervous system and other parts of the body.
Horny Goat Weed: Used as a Sexual Stimulant for Men
Yohimbe: Used as a Sexual Stimulant for Men and Women
Belladonna Eye Drops: Used to make your eyes Dilated
Passion Flower: MAOI/Antidepressant
Kanna: SSRI/Antidepressant
Aconite aka Monks Hood aka Wolf's Bane. It has been used to kill wolves and was said to turn people in to werewolves. It is poison and can kill someone who eats to much, some people smoke it though.
Acacia is known as "Waddle" in Australia and has species all over the world, the bark contains DMT, 5-MeO-DMT and other Tryptamines.
Acorus Calamus aka Sweet Flag. Can cause hallucinations. It is used in medicine and food.
Amanita Muscaria aka Fly Agaric. Hallucinogenic and possibly Narcotic. You have probably seen them with toads on them, or gnomes under them, or in Alice in Wonderland.
Some species of Ants have been used to achieve ritual hallucinations. Some ants contain hallucinogens you can use by swallowing them.
Ayahuasca is a mixture of 2 things. Any plant containing MAOIs mixed with any plant containing DMT, then drank together.
Belladona seeds are poisonous and have been used to achieve hallucinations for a long time. They say that the reason "witches fly on broom sticks" is because they would use broom sticks to put the Belladona seed in a... weird place. Then they would "Fly".
Betel leaf is chewed by about 1/10th of the world's population as a mild stimulant similar to cigarettes.
Brugmansia contains Scopolamine which can cause vivid hallucinations via making you extremely delirious. It is not a hallucinogen, it is a delliriant and a poison that can kill you.
caesalpinia sepiaria is said to cause hallucinations.
Camellia Sinensis aka Tea Leaves, contains both Caffeine and L-Theanine, which together work differently than either of them would alone.
Cannabis aka Marijuana aka Pot also Hash contains THC and other Cannabinoids.
Chocolate contains Theobromine.
Cantharides aka Spanish Fly. An Aphrodisiac made from the wings of a beetle. Supposedly Sudanese people grind up dung beetles and drink them with water, no known reason for this yet though.
Coca plants contain cocaine and other things. It used to be the main ingredient of Coca-Cola.
Coffee contains Caffeine.
Datura is just like Brugmansia.
Duboisia Hopwoodii aka Pituri grows in Australia and has nicotine and a stronger (more poisonous) relative of nicotine in it.
Ephedra aka Mormon Tea contains Ephedrine, a stimulant which has been used to treat asthma.
Fugu aka Puffer fish. It's liver contains a nuerotoxin that kills most people, some people survive with no vital signs, then wake back up after 3 days. It is a delicacy in Japan because you have to trust the chef to not kill you, even on accident.
Guarana contains both Theobromine and Caffeine.
Heimia Salicifolia aka "Sun Opener" has the ability to turn your vision yellow when you drink it in a tea.
Henbane is poisonous and some people smoke it.
Iboga contains Ibogaine which has in recent times been used to cure Heroine and other opiate addictions. It could also be useful for cigarette smokers and methamphetamine users.
Inebriating Mint is used as a sedative and light hallucinogen in Turkey and a few other places.
Kava Kava has the same descriptive qualities as marijuana (Sedative/Euphoriant), but it is not the same when you take it, they are different. Mixing them together gives them Synergy though.Kava will make your moth numb and does not taste awesome.
Kratom is a sedative or a stimulant depending how much you take, and people chew it or make it into a tea.
lycopodium complanatum has been used by natives as a stimulant.
lycopodium selago causes a "mild narcotic hypnosis" at low doses and coma at high doses.
Mandrake root is poisonous and has historically been used in tons of potions and stuff. It was the plant that had a crying baby as a root in Harry Potter. The roots actually do look like people sometimes and historically they have been involved in all kinds of crazy stuff.
Morning Glory Seeds contain LSA which is a cousin of LSD.
Myelobia Smerintha Moths are said to be able to give you dreams when eaten, and the Aztecs claimed a moth as their underworld God, so someone should see what is in those ones.
the Nightmare fish is known to cause terrible nightmares. It could be kyphosus vaigiensis or kyphosus fuseus.
Osteophloeum Platyspermum is used in Ecuador for it's hallucinogenic properties.
Peyote is known to contain Mescaline.
Psilosybe mushrooms (usually Psilosybe Cubensis) are known as "Magic Mushrooms" commonly.
Puffballs are the mushrooms genuses: Lycoperdon, Bovista and Calvatia and have been known to cause Auditory Hallucinations.
Qat aka Khat is eaten in the middle east, it is used commonly like coffee, but is more like Amphetamine.
San Pedro is similar to Peyote.
Scirpus has traditionally been used as a Hallucinogen in Mexico, but it's effects have not been studied.
Scotch Broom supposedly has hallucinogenic seeds, and leaves that when smoked, make colors seem more vibrant.
Syrian Rue contains MAOIs which shut off parts of your immune system, allowing certain plants to take stronger effect (ex: used in Ayahuasca to make DMT orally effective) but it will also make Chocolate, Alcohol and Cheese poisonous during the duration of its effect on you because you can not break them down properly. This is called the "Cheese Syndrome" or "Cheese Effect"
Tree Tobacco is much like Tobacco but contains nicotine and other things, and it grows in South America.
Wild Lettuce (all lettuce actually, but this one has the most) contains opiates, not the same at the opiates in opium, but they hit the same receptors in the brain. It used to be called "Poor man's opium", and it probably grows in your yard.
Virola is known to contain DMT and other things.
Yohimbe bark is used as an Aphrodisiac and Stimulant for both men and women.
Yopo contains 5-HO-DMT which is mixed with Edible Lime and blown into people's noses in south America.
Uziza: Contains Caryophyllene, which is also in Cannabis and works similar to Cannabinoids.
Syrian Oregano & Thyme: Both of these contain Thymol, which is related to Propofol, which is the stuff that Michael Jackson was using to sleep. Thymol does not act like Propofol only because it is broken down in the stomach and liver.
Betel Leaf and Nut: Contains Chavicol, the leaves and nut are chewed like tobacco all over the world, and drops of extract can be added to a cigarette or joint for a stimulant effect.
Dragon's Head (Dracocephelums): Sedative Effect
Wool Grass: Root mass is used as an Entheogen
Sun Opener: Used as part of a Mixture in Mexico by Natives. It has effects of its own, but they are hard to pin point. Maybe a skeletal muscle relaxant, it has a weird hangover.
Coleus: Used by the same tribe that invented Salvia, it is a Sedative but has not been studied much.
Hops: Contain Myrcene, which works as a light Opiod Analgesic.
Indian Bay Leaves: Contains Caryophyllene
Uncaria Rhynchophylla: Has effects on the NMDA receptor.
Ylang Ylang: Contains Caryophyllene and other Terpenes.
Tecoma Stans: Works in some cats like Catnip. Could have effects in humans.
Tartarian Honey Suckle Bark: Works like Catnip in some cats. Could have effects in humans.
Cigarette Tobacco/Nicotiana Tobaccum: Used for dreaming by Native Americans, not used to Relax or Stimulate.
Jasmine Tobacco: A Species of Tobacco whose flowers smell like Jasmine
Bitter Calea: Used to promote dreaming.
Graviola: 5HT1a Agonist
Senegalia greggii: Native to Texas to California and in Sonora Mexico, the extract has stimulant effects
Red Clover
Ugni Molinae
Casearia Sylvestris
Pachyptera Hymenaea
Prickly Poppy
Adrenorphin (Cow Brain)
Deltorphin (Waxy Leaf Frog)
Dermorphin (Waxy Leaf Frog)
Chaste Tree
Black Kohosh
Laurelia Novae-Zelandiae
Salvia Leriifolia
Salvia Divinorum (Illegal in some places, also very active on other receptors)
Tabernaemontana Pachysiphon
Irvingia Gabonesis
Myrrh
Dalea Purpurea
Nigella Sativa Seed
Sophora Subprostata
Picralima Nitida
Chocolate (Reports say that Chocolate makes other Opiods stronger)
Yellow Horned Poppy
Crydalis Yanhusuo
Spinorphin (Cow Spine)
D-Phenylalanine (Enkephalinas Inhibitor)
Oriental Poppy
Marijuana (CBD is an Opiod)
Posted by Ryan Gallagher at 10:29 PM No comments: Email ThisBlogThis!Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to Pinterest
Dream Herbs
I was researching Hottentot tea, and Hottentot tea. This is mainly Imphepho (an Herb), but is traditionally also used with various other Herbs and if I remember correctly Kanna was one of the things that was used.
I also knew about Silene Capensis being used by the Xhosa tribe, but today while I was looking it up again I found "Ubulawu". This is basically a Ayahuasca/Oilahuasca meant for dreaming. I never got to try Silene Capensis, because it has a special growing cycle and doesn't match up with Marijuana (as I found out), so I only have seeds. But I just ordered some other stuff, and I should have them after Christmas.
Here is what I ordered for an Ubulawu mix:
1. Silene Capensis root (People have gotten results from this alone)
2. Synaptolepis kirkii (Has some pretty interesting Neuroprotective effects and is said to induce Visions)
3. Rhus pauciflorus (Commonly used as an admixture)
4.Acacia xanthophloea (Used for fever and other things)
Then I already had these things (for Hottentot tea) and I will try them all together:
1. Imphepho (Said to Induce Visions, and Contains Diterpenes)
2. Kanna (SSRI)
Then I also have Coleus, which was used by the tribe that used Salvia, but Coleus was used specifically for Dreaming.
Tons of people have taken some of these alone and had really good effects, but tribes in South Africa are known to take all of them together. And if you look in to the history of Python cave and Imphepho, you will see that people have been using these herbs since the first human behavior was developed (Python cave and other Caves in South Africa like Pinnacle Point are places where humans first did some of the things we consider to be "Human Nature".).
1~
These plant hallucinogens are not just some bad guy ! they r not http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psychotomimetic
A drug with psychotomimetic (also known as psychotogenic) actions mimics the symptoms of psychosis, including delusions and/or delirium, as opposed to just hallucinations. Psychotomimesis is the onset of psychotic symptoms following the administration of such a drug. 58 min mark >Terence McKenna - Esalen Scholar In Residence, June 1989 listen, u get to see yourself, then on the come down u may muster the strength to change, as it was all shown to you so vividly, these r healing tools. Any psychotomimetics going on during your trip are the same psychotomimetics going on without the psychedelic! the ego chatter shit box ! just its surfacing or rather your diving into them ! but they are always there working beneath the surface subconsciously unconsciously. The psychedelic just allows you to vividly conquer them. HENCE, 'dreaming awake'. ~benjamin couwenberg site creator www.consciousazine.com in tha gno. "Interest in the neurobiology of illicit drugs has been growing in recent years, and the hallucinogen psilocybin (found in 'magic mushrooms') is no exception. Scientists at the University of Zurich have found that psilocybin acts on the amygdala, where it can help prevent our brain from processing negative emotions. Studies using fMRI showed that psilocybin acts on specific serotonin receptors, including those found in the amygdala. The study in Biological Psychiatry reveals that this is how psilocybin exerts its mood-lifting effects. Researchers are also interested in this drug to potentially lead to new depression treatments, since an overactive response to negative stimuli is one of the hallmarks of depression. Finding ways to ease that hyperactive response may help improve depression symptoms, the researchers say.
Read more: http://bit.ly/1isO7Z3 Journal article: Psilocybin-Induced Decrease in Amygdala Reactivity Correlates with Enhanced Positive Mood in Healthy Volunteers. Biological Psychiatry, 2014. doi: 10.1016/j.biopsych.2014.04.010 Image credit: afgooey74/Flickr" RE: ofcourse, all plant hallucinogens can be good for you. more lore less law !!!!!!!!!!! (now a message to my friends beneath the slogan, i just always cant help but think about how utterly amazing these substances are, especially magic mushrooms i mean its so ephemerally here it is such a privilege to eat from the basiodcarp (body) of the mushroom. I mean it rains they're there, then there gone! the next day, and ohmy gosh WHEN YOU ARE ON IT, then you realize, then you see the entire spectrum of the tremendum, you just realize how perfectly it works with your body, and that it is here at the same time blink of an eye moments that you are, i mean it could have been around millions of years after human life perished, what are the chances!!!!!!!? that the mushrooms magik to you here and now, and that we can even research it, look into it physicality anatomically and into its energy signitures in our light body and such, just i cant help but think its not happenstance that science is beginning to apocalypt(uncover) these now, as they were merely thrown in the bag of bad with all other things that made you think funny or AKA drugs..without any science behind it, back in the ? 60's or 70's or whenever it was. now evidence shows they are good for us..... as we enter maximum novelty domain which is a psychedelic enactment re enactment of history and the new meshed resonance field... pretty coincidental.. just like just about everything! to these happenstancers everything is just random chances ! bah!!!!!!!!!!!! its OBVIOUS i dont even neeeed any 'proof' that all is destiny so to speak and not happenstance but for reason..but arguing over this at this date 2014 is like argueing over that evolution occurs back in the 90's with some idiot. so hence.. the third stage of truth is passed unto... the acceptance of obviousness, seen as self evident.. that these mushrooms and all plant HALLUCINOGENS can be good. ohh let that hit your brain barriers i can feel it hit peoples from here. as we come into global telepathic alignment all will be accepted as it cannot be denied of lied. the light is shed the dark veil over humanity piercing. so the conclusion is obviously work out how to use these.. i sure have.. and some of you are like.. ben you act asif i should realize this, psychedelics= good and etc.. YES! u should, why the fuck are you so suspicious of earth! where you are made of and born from and NOT even as suspicious of the man made drugs ! you'r crazy !!!!!!!!!! |
2~
_----- synthetics post: psychedelics biodome earth page:
well i was well against synthetics, i even have a moto; manic organic.. meaning go for the plant and fungi hallucinogens, because one of my arguments was, theyve evolved side by side us humans here on earth and asif it is a mistake ha! over billions or millions of years forged to meet up with our brains/bodies.lightbodies neer the eschaton2012, and along the way evolving us many times many interactions with many cultures. then i realized though, after smoking the synthetic drug known as ice one night, when immense clarity came as i couldnt get to deep sleep delta or pass safely into theta brainwaves. i realized well the language of inside or inner is not being visualized like a nice plant or fungi hallucinogen like cannabis or psilocybin cubensis might, but i could not deny the openeness of my channels. there is accompanying clarity or openeness of channels for sure, and so hence even though the language is not as visualized it is still spurted up the really open channel. then i also realized well hey.. yeh we are at the eschaton and so obviously to go against my saying youknow earth made these natural things over milenia and scientists only make these synthetics over decades at best, i realized against that saying however is the entire notion of the genesis singularis or grand 20 or 16 billion year cycle of game 1 of universal reaction stepping into game to moving from reaction to creation, that well the speeding up notion or concresence of the time waves does stand there along side with, 'well hey then due to the new fast pace evolution it does seem apt at height of eschaton that man is able to ah how u say compete aside nature', as part of a notion of the genesis singularis is a kind of completion notion. amalgaman at the end of history, and so the synthasizing being like up with natures. Therefore, i must re-light my sight, to realize there are uses for these synthetics. however i still largely side with manic organic, please go the natural resources i still say. there are less detrimental natures to them i still feel. more perfectly synthasised u could say, mother nature has. as apposed to man made substances. BUT the way u take all of these should have a common thread whether synthetic or organic, that thread should be irregularly, usually long between intervals (except probably cannabis) and i do note more integration is required with the organic mother earthly substances because there DOES seem to be more information context therein. Its almost asif the synthetics of my day atleast 2014 i write this post 2012 eschaton, are more bland in informational context. I just wanted to note that synthetics have usability to be fair, but note i did conclude i still do not think they are the antwoord (the answer) as much. they still "fall by the waste side" for me so to speak, definitely not my first choices. They seem shallower somehow + they do more damage corrosion degredation(i mean this is obvious from viewing long time users of synthetics view some crack photos for instance, but u dont see this with the organic plant/fungi hallucinogens) to your body, the synthetics, and hence not falling in my favour.~benjamin couwenberg www.consciousazine.com site creator. Why does Psilocybe Cubensis only grow in certain types of animal feces?
(ED_i actually googled, 'why does cubensis only grow in cow dung' (of
bos indicus cattle) as people used to tell me it was due to some special
weed growing in the field )
It grows on cow and also horse dung if the horses are fed a grain diet instead of just hay.. And when the animal drops its dung the dung sits there and the internal tempertaures heat up so high from the grain bacteria that it actually sterilizes the dung and also because mushrooms are a form of parasite. They need a host and the grain in dung provides specific nutrients that the PC mushroom thrives off of. Thats why when you grow shrooms, its easiest when using a grain based substrate like brown rice flour. Sorry, no and no. How can bacteria sterilize something? And PC mushrooms are not a parasite (living off another living host), they are saprobic (eating dead material). Grain-fed horse and cow manure is actually NOT a good substrate for mushrooms. Grass-fed horse and cow manure is excellent mushroom substrate. I'm sure if you ate nothing but grass, your human manure would also be excellent mushroom substrate. Either way, wild PC mushrooms also don't sprout directly from cow patties. They grow in cow-fertilized grassy pastures.(ED_wrong they only ever grow from the cow patty) Its like a compost heap dude. Once the temp of the decaying matters reaches 160-170+ degrees it kills any bacteria making it sterile. And the most abundant and prolific mushrooms come from grain fed horse and cows, sheep etc.., not grass, grass produces smaller and less of a quantity of shrooms. I have been hunting and growing them on and off since the 90s. You are just right about PC not being a parasitic mushroom though, Ill give you that much. i think it has more to do with the physical properties of the manure than the animals diet. it cant be too acidic or too basic or the spores will not grow. it also has to have a certain consistency (not to packed in) and a certain viscosity and humidity. i doubt sterility or diet have anything to do with it. fungus grows on anything organic, and dont need a lot of variety in terms of nutrients. sterility is of no importance once the colony is formed But grain-fed cows and horses DO NOT produce mushroom-friendly manure! Only grass-fed cows, horses, and donkeys will produce mushroom manure. I'll let this whole thread slide because bluelight isn't mycotopia, but... "fungus grows on anything organic" not if we're talking about a specific fungus here. Psilocybe Cubensis grows on grass-fed cow-fertilized MEADOW SOIL. They DO NOT pop directly out of cow patties unless you specifically introduce them there. Psilocybe Azurescens grows on hardwood (no conifer!) woodchips and mulch. Copelandia Cyanescens grows directly on dung (especially grass-fed cow dung). Agaricus Bisporus (common button, portobello) grows only on compost that has already been processed by a thermophilic Actinomycete (firefang at 160F like alluded to above). Saccharomyces Cerevisiae grows only in sterilized water that is HIGH in sugar. Try to grow any of the above on its non-preferred substrate and YOU WILL FAIL. It's like saying "Mammals only need protein and carbohydrates to live" and so you try raising a lion on nothing but tofu... I notice I find both the copelandia (blue meanies) and the cubensis (purple ringers) growing directly out of ROCK HARD COW SHIT after a good rainy season, but not when it's flooded... They grow also in heavily wooded areas (hense the spiders) and in really tall grass, which takes a shuffling technique to find them without stepping on them and crushing them into the shit. (ED_well i have only ever picked Cubensis from the cow dung directly it is never growing out of the soul, at least the basidiocarp fruiting body that you pick anyway, sure the mycelium mass probably runs under ground for kilometers) (ED_ so specific answer still unknown or not sure) wiki ;Natural HabitatEdit Psilocybe cubensis is a coprophilic fungus (a dung-loving species) that often colonizes the dung of large herbivores, most notably cows and other grazing mammals such as goats. It prefers humid grasslands and has been found in tropical and subtropical environments. In the US, it is sometimes found growing wild in the South, generally below the 35th parallel. It has been found in modern times in the highlands and river valleys of Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela in South America. It has also been found throughout Thailand, Cambodia, India, and Australia. Psilocybe cubensis can be found where humidity is above 85% a lot of the time, and where grass-eating mammals are. The reason cubensis grows commonly on the dung of these animals is because they have no or very little stomach acid. The cow eats feed with mushroom spores on it, and the spores germinate in the cow's moist, warm stomach. No, cubensis is not found under cow patties, and you should not anything you find under cow pies. (Unless you're a badass mycologist, and know what sclerotia is, what species can form sclerotia, and are in the part of Mexico where it is commonly found.) Cubensis can be found within a few hundred miles of the Gulf Coast reliably, especially in fall and spring, all the way from Galveston, TX to Miami, FL. as far north as middle Tennessee. Note though that after 11 years of diligent wild hunting, I've only found cubensis in TN twice. If you hunt wild shrooms, make sure you are an expert at identifying mushrooms. What's the worst that could happen if you mis-identify? Your liver will shut down in a day or two, and you'll die of systemic ammonia toxicity and jaundice within a week or so. Yeah, you want to be careful. |